We set off on our first walk through the hills above Sorrento taking the old paths and steps that were originally used to get about between villages before the roads were built. Generally these paths are in good condition, although there were the odd set of steps that can't have been used for years that were very overgrown and a few paths that I found a bit scary (on the edge, narrow & loose gravel).
We had a guide book to follow, I had read through this walk a few times and thought it was well documented and would be easy to follow... that is of course until you start to follow it !
We set off in the morning catching the shuttle bus from our hotel high on the hill, the Grand Hotel President, lovely place to stay, down to the centre of town to pick up the route, needless to say a few wrong turns were taken and a bit of back tracking, getting lost & finding the only non English speaking Italian to help direct us !
Now, don't laugh, an hour later we end up at the back of our hotel (!) to pick up a path towards Pantano, the first village.... steep paths took us onwards & upwards with the sun beating down, luckily much of the route was shaded through beautiful lemon & olive groves. Past striking plants & rows of vines.
The directions were not as easy as we first thought, as the paths wind and criss-cross through the hills, we arrived on the outskirts of Massa Lubrense, without ever seeing Pantano (!).
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| Some paths had names in marble |
We also visited the large church, where apparently Nuns live, they join young and never leave the premises and have no contact with the outside world, we were told that you knock on the door hand them food and leave... things have changed a bit now though, the church is open to wander round and you leave the food in there for them to collect once the doors have been closed to the outside world.
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| Flowers outside the church in the village square |
After lunch we opened the guide book again to see if we could pick up the return route (the way we should have come in) we also picked up a very vague map from Tourist information (no help at all, it just said a long route ) So after a couple of false turns we managed to pick up the route and stay on it for half the hike back.... we did find Pantano, nothing there, just houses, unless of course the centre of the village was tucked away somewhere and not sign posted, nothing unusual about that in Italy, but that's another story.
Generally the route was really pleasant, a few times you did have to venture along the very busy main roads with blind bends to get to the next set of steps taking you up or down. We even impressed ourselves by finding our way back, to the rear of our Hotel to shortcut the last leg. We arrived back mid-afternoon hot & tired but having had a really nice time.
We only passed one family having lunch at their farmhouse & didn't set eyes on anyone else apart from in the town. We really felt as if we saw a different side to Sorrento & its surroundings.
I suppose getting lost & finding our way is all part of the adventure, rather than following the route someone else has chosen for you.....
We did plan another hike, however there was so much else to do we ran out of time, so we'll have to go back :)
We visited the island of Capri, wandered the back streets, though colourful gardens.
then down a long cliff path round part of the coast, stunning views. The climb back up had tough going, it was a really hot day !
We did stop for a reasonably priced lunch in a small family run restaurant off the main streets, so 'romantic' on the little juilette balcony.
Sorrento itself was a nice place to wander the narrow cobbled streets of shops, bars & restaurants.
We loved it !
